Methods of grinding spices evolve over the years. Long time ago, when
human beings started processing their food, they discovered that some plants
can be stored longer and also tasted nicer if they were pounded with stones
or grinded finely.
For example, seeds or grains of rye or wheat. As for spices, for
easy of transport, or as the recipe calls it, they are normally grounded.
Methods for grinding spices for modern households normally include electric
pepper grinder (for dry spices - like black pepper and cinnamon) or electric
blender (for wet spices - like onion, ginger and chili paste).
When I was a child, it always fascinated me to watch a particular Indian
lady at the wet market. A wet market is the open air place where fresh
fruits, vegetables, fish and meat were sold at a cheaper price compared to
the supermarket. She would be sitting in front of an array of readily ground
wet spices. They were of different colors. Red for chili, orange for
turmeric, gray for coriander, white for garlic, brown for aniseed.
So what people would do then was to tell the lady what kind of dishes
they were going to prepare with their meat or chicken or fish. She would
deftly pinched a little of this and a little of that and wrapped the mound
of the paste in a piece of banana leaf. So, there was no guesswork on what
to add in the curries or how much because the "prescribed" paste already
took into account how many kilos of fish or how many chickens were going to
be used for each batch.
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Batu giling - the grinding stone |
In the old days methods of grinding spices are different. Before electric blenders, the spices were painstakingly
grounded manually. Every house had their own pestle and mortar made of
undressed granite. This was used for grinding small quantities of spices.
For bigger amount, they used "batu giling" - something similar to a fat
rolling pin made of raw granite and rolled over a thick flat granite slab
(think how much workout you get from daily usage of that!). Batu kisar - a
mini version of a stone mill was also used. However, this was mainly used
for turning rice grain into rice powder. These are considered primitive
tools because they have been used since the Stone Age! Needless to say, it
is very rare nowadays to see such a spectacle.
Recently, I had a good opportunity to visit the Cheah Kongsi in Penang,
Malaysia. It is a small complex consisting of living areas, classrooms, with
servant quarters, a rock garden as well as a temple. For the Cheah clan,
this place is a legacy of their founding fathers who came all the way from
China to set up business and finally settling in Penang back in the 19th
century.




As a group that represent some of the Nyonya culture, it was interesting
to observe their ancient kitchen. Left just the way it used to be. Complete
with giant manual grinding machine, mortars and also granite slabs. The
methods of grinding spices involving these tools are hardly used now.
For your information, the Cheah Kongsi is one of the most visited places
out of
Penang Heritage Trail. I could see brass molds for making kuih kapit,
putu kacang, baulu, kukur nyior (manual coconut grater) and the like in the
kitchen. It was such a pleasure to see all these antiques cooking utensils!
Now, back to our topic above. Powdered spices are normally readily packed
in plastic packets. So, we need only to choose the brands we are partial to.
However, old people still swear by traditional methods. It is said spices
grounded manually taste so much better than those processed by electricity.
They also say, after using the mortar, rinse once and do not throw away the
water used, instead throw it in the pot for a tastier meal!
Back to the old mill story. If you look at Alagappa's brand logo, you
will see the picture of a manual mechanical mill. I have actually seen one
of those in a curry powder shop. However, these methods of grinding spices
have been adapted that they are similar to the principle of an electric
sewing machine. An electric motor is added. Instead of using manual labor,
time and cost saving methods are employed instead.
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Raw Granite Pestle and Mortar |
In my house,
I have the top of the line food processor and an electric blender. However,
nowadays I find it more easy to use my faithful pestle and mortar to grind
my spices as my preferred methods of grinding
spices. The action of pounding the stones and making a lot of noise is
therapeutic! It is like blending with nature and going back to the stone
age.
Over the
lifetime of a cook, she is quite likely to wear out several sets of
pestle and
mortar. The reason is because, when the set has become smooth with wear,
it is no longer good for breaking up the peppercorns, for example. So a new
set is required. Somehow, a worn set, dark with age for frequent washing and
stained with the color of spices can become the pieces that hold sentimental
value. Am I getting old or what? *grin*
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